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Patterns for the bodiced petticoat and the white gauze dress - Historically Bent Costuming

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September 20th, 2009

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07:29 pm - Patterns for the bodiced petticoat and the white gauze dress
Each of these will link to a larger version. I have even larger scans, which I'll email to you if you really want. The scale of the graph paper is 1/4".

The bodiced petticoat pieces. Note that when I actually cut the back, I added half an inch to the pattern CB (one inch total). I worked each up separately and then put the side, side back, and fronts together on the piece of paper I used for the side.

Back and SB as originally drafted up.

Side, then side front

The front includes the new CF and the dart that I added to take up a bit of looseness in the armscye.

Front, including alterations.

This did not come from Tidens Tøj, I just made it up:

Shoulder strap.

Once I had the pieces drawn up for the first time, I walked all the seams. Most of them were pretty close, but the SB seam was not. You can see by the original, very straight, SB seam there is an arrow pointing to the sketch of the top corner of the SB piece. I decided to make the SB piece taller, rather than the back seam shorter. Then, once the seams agreed, I drew on a much curvier seam line onto the back. Using a light box, with the SB page on top, I walked the old seam lines and marked the new seam line onto the SB page. The original seam line is fainter and marked with little x's.

What? Walking seams? - It's a way to confirm that two pieces are the same length along their matching seams. It's eaiser than measuring, and also lets you make sure that the edges blend into each other well. It goes like this:

I worked up the white gauze bodice from the bodiced petticoat. I knew at that point it was too narrow in the back and too wide in the armscye. I tried (with some limited success) to fix these problems. It worked alright-ish. I also wanted to raise the back waist a little, which again worked... sort of. The back as drawn below was actually just barely wide enough, and I discovered that I really wanted two layers for all of the bodice. The obvious solution was to cut the back again with a lot more width tacked on to the CB, and it worked fine. You'll notice that I also reverted to the straight SB seam. There wasn't much point in putting a lot of shaping in a gathered bodice. The SB piece is much wider because I didn't use the Side piece at all.

Back, too narrow still.

Side back with a little extra to compensate for leaving off the side completely.

Front. Note that the CF line is actually three inches further out from the drawn line.

The sleeve I basically made up in a state of panic. I measured around my lower bicep (12"), as high as I could with my arm down (15"), the rise of my shoulder (~6"), the underarm length I wanted (8"), and started drawing. That's the first black outline. Then I cut it out, taped it together, and slid it on. Way too huge in several directions. I marked the length I actually wanted (something like 4.5") and redrew the hem, making sure to keep the hem width the same - yellow guides and red lines. Try it on again, and it's a little too large around the upper arm and over the shoulder: blue lines, and then decided it was final enough. Remarkably, it worked out. The hem was cut on a fold, which saved having to hem it and also made the sleeves double layer (my! what a happy coincidence there!).

Last but not least, here are my intended alterations to the bodiced petticoat pattern. I just printed off the pictures and started scribbling.

I tried out a couple of SB seam lines but none of them made as much sense as the really simple one. The only thing I'm not quite solid on is whether to alter the front like that. I admit, I really like the curve just the way it is, but I had trouble with the corners showing under the neckline of my gown. We'll see. I also may not drop the back quite so far down.

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