May 29th, 2008
|rabid_bookwyrm||01:02 pm - More Housekeeping|
This summer, I'm hoping to put in at least one evening a week on sewing, and I might even do one for historical sewing and one for modern sewing. We'll see. In any case, here's my list, in vague order of intention:
1. The Regency Ballgowns. My blue fabric came, so all we need are wooden busks and fabric for Cat's bodiced petticoat. Also sheets for shifts and things.
2. A Regency day dress. There's a picnic, and it would be fun to go in costume. Also bonnets, but if that doesn't happen no one will take offense.
3. 1850s fan front. I'll probably work on this one in and about working on the Regency stuff. I'm going to dye the silk, because I really don't like the print. It'll be the darkest blue I can get.
4. My houppelande peackock Halowe'en costume. Needs green velvet and probably a lot of feathers.
1. Yellow plaid blouse.
3. V2902 in batik.
4. Blue wool shirt - M4922.
If I get all of this done, it'll be killer. I'm not really expecting to, though.
April 15th, 2008
|rabid_bookwyrm||01:41 pm - This is kind of a duplicate post; sorry the two people who read both my journals|
ORS is throwing a Regency ball down in Eugene the 24th of May, which happens to be the day after my birthday. It is just long enough after school ends that I'm mad enough to think that I can totally successfully make myself and the Girl two dresses. Mine is going to be based heavily off of the Duchesse du Berry in this portrait, because I really enjoy her simple lines and the slightly wider waistband. I'm going to keep the earlier higher waist, though. I'll order five yards of the dark blue satin (haven't got the link handy, sorry), and the Mantua Maker regency corset, which is supposed to be quite accurate. For the dresses, because I really don't have the resources or the time to draft patterns, I'm going to start with the Sense and Sensibility Regency dress pattern and redraft the bodice as necessary.
April 8th, 2008
December 9th, 2007
|rabid_bookwyrm||08:46 pm - Quilt for Leah|
A quilt for my baby cousin Leah. All the fabric is flannel. Fotoz behind cut. ( Very in-progressCollapse )
November 15th, 2007
|rabid_bookwyrm||12:13 pm - Words, words, words|
When I ordered the six yards gold silk (still has not arrived, beginning to get antsy), I also ordered these two patterns (pants, blouse) from Evadress. They've long since arrived. Very quick service, exactly what I ordered. I'd definitely do it again. They look pretty good, too. The blouse was a Vogue pattern. It's single sized - the pattern was traced out and then photocopied. There was one marking missing, but it was easy to find when I compared to the instructions. I'll let her know, so she can correct it, too. The instructions are a double-sided photocopy of the originals. Looks like it will be quite easy to make. I'm trying to figure out what I want to make it in, but I think as soon as I do that I'll, well, do it.
The pants are from the '30's, and the instructions consist of a series of bullet points which direct you (via letters) back and forth between six diagrams of the pants. VERY confusing. I'm going to have to get several colours of hilighter and follow along, marking the different parts really clearly. However, (this is very important), she made sure to include each relevant diagram on every page. This would be much, much harder without that. I'll still definitely be mocking it up, but I may not fail 100% this way. It's worth it, though, because I think they'll be pretty snazzy.
I'm also thinking of doing this 1890s coat in corduroy. I'll change out the sleeves for modifications on Folkwear's Bolivian milkmaid's jacket sleeves - I won't stitch down the pleats at the shoulder, just like on my black cord version, but I'll cut off the whole pleated section on the forearm and change it out for a fitted long cuff, and then pleat into that (almost like stitching down the pleats, except not as much fabric involved on my forearm). Do I want to do it in 4.5 wale or 8 wale (per inch), and in dark dark green or navy?
November 4th, 2007
The burgundy silk dress is evolving, and getting lots closer to being
The burgundy silk which I posted a picture of way back when (here) has always been intended for an early-bustle dress. I plan to use Truly Victorian 405 for the top and Truly Victorian 364 for the overskirt. 364 is technically a late bustle overskirt, but I have seen a fashion plate (since lost to the ravages of time) wherein both were represented (not on the same woman) and that's good enough for me.
My plan originally was to do the underskirt and main bodice in burgundy silk, the vest front and overskirt lining (it shows just at the edges of the back drapery) in a white silk satin or twill, and the collar, cuffs, and overskirt in a dark brown silk velvet. This was somewhat problematic, because the bodice sections are going to take about half of my five yards, and two and a half yards isn't really enough fabric to make a bustle skirt out of. The plan changed slightly when I found some really gorgeous heavy weight white cotton twill at B Sharp.
I've now changed the plan even more radically, but I think it's going to work out fantastically. Fabric Mart was having a big wool sale, and I almost bought some heavy coating wool a week or so ago. I went back today to see if they still had it, and they didn't. What they did have was "60 inch wide 100% woven silk suiting, medium weight, soft hand. Color: Dry Gold. Retail Price: $20.00 Sale Price: $4.99 per yard" So I bought some. About 6 yards. Their photos of it are ( here:Collapse )
The new plan is like this:
The bodice will still be largely burgundy, with cuffs and collars velvet. The overskirt will still be velvet, but lined with burgundy instead of the vest color. The skirt will now be gold, as will the vest front and binding. I think this will look fabulous. It's also really nice because I won't be pinched for fabric at all.
I'll need to get new buttons almost certainly (the ones I'd picked out for the white cotton are lovely mother of pearl, and I am certain I will be able to use them somewhere else). I am so far beyond thrilled.
September 18th, 2007
They aren't done yet, they need the tapes stitched to the hoops (currently safety pinned to make sure I like the way they're placed) and the hoops themselves stitched closed, and a waistband put on. However, all of these things are trivial compared to the maths I have done. The waistband will probably wait until I have a corset, so I can get it the right height and that. The hoops are (by diameter) 20", 28", 32", 34" and they are ten, ten, and eight inches (from the first hoop, down) apart. Simple pythagorean maths will get you the exact distances; I don't remember precisely.
Here are some pictures: ( Pikchers threw hayrCollapse )
I calculated the circumference of each hoop and then cut it with ten inches overlap. I thought i might trim that off but I don't see the reason now. It causes a slight flattening of the front, but that's perfectly acceptable and will probably vanish when I put a petticoat over it. I figured six tapes to start and they seem to be doing fine. I'll add more if I need to. They aren't actually attached to the hoops, just looped around them. I think I might leave it like that, it might help with storage.
For a petticoat, I'm just going to go to the thrift store and get some white cotton sheets. I cannot for my life find my ten yards of white (yeah, you wouldn't think that, would you), and it's not really heavy enough anyway. Sheets will probably be cheeper and simpler.
Next step... sewing this together. I may not do that tonight - I also need to do laundry. After that, petticoat and -- maybe I'll also get a sheet and make my chemise out of it. Blast my white cotton going missing! But I should have at least most of the tangles worked out of the chemise, especially if I get my act together and sew up the side to check the fit of the armband.
August 12th, 2007
|rabid_bookwyrm||03:08 pm - 1868 Corset|
I have sewing space in my new room, and it's amazing. I started work on my 1868 Foy corset (from this patent). I mocked it up in a dark blue linen that I've had for a while. It had a lot of stretch across the grain and not much at all with the grain, so I turned all the pieces on their sides except for the hip gore. That way they'll have some vertical stretch (I don't care) and very little horizontal stretch, and the gore will be stretchy enough to flair over my hip nicely. I took the front corner off the gore (I'm not sure why it was there, since the pieces it goes with are curved) and about a quarter inch out of the two bust seams (on either side) and moved the back seam in on the side piece almost an inch. It looked like it fit pretty well, so I cut the linen/cotton pin-striped denim I got from FFC at the beginning of the year. This one didn't have any stretch, so I cut the hip gore on the bias. I ended up taking the underbust in a little bit. Mostly, I think this guy's going to fit alright, but I can't really fit the pattern until I have it all boned up and that, so it'll in many ways be a toile. Great if it fits, but if it doesn't no big deal. This pattern takes less than half a yard to cut, so I have plenty 'nuff to make another if I want. If it's really poorly fitting, I'll sell it or give it away or something.
Here are some very large pictures: ( Read more...Collapse )
July 30th, 2007
With a bit of a madcap gleam to my eye, I present to you... more burgudian gowns:
These are all by Petrus Christus, a Netherlandish painter in the mid/late 1400s. ( Read more...Collapse )
|rabid_bookwyrm||02:33 pm - Update from a while back - incl. pictures.|
I was working on my chemise a month or two ago. I got some progress made on the mock. It's not completely done, but it's quite close. This pattern definitely isn't going to work as is, but I'm going to finish the mock anyway to make sure I know all the changes that need to be made. As a reminder, the original pattern is here.
Ok, like I said before, the picture has nothing to do with the pattern. Indeed, parts of the pattern have very little to do with each other. Here are the pattern pieces cut out. I made some modifications right off the bat--the sleeve was the biggest, most obvious problem. As narrow as it was given, it could never pouf like the sketch shows it doing. I made it much, much wider across the top (where the fold is). The sleeve band I made larger and more circular (rather than conical), so presumably it will fit my arm better. I have not yet put the sleeve bands on, or sewn up the side seams. I also cut them on the fold, rather than curving the top as drawn. I intend that the flat side should be down, and the the point of the band should face up my shoulder.
( Large photos here.Collapse )
Things still to find out: Mostly, whether the sleeve band works. I'm also a little curious whether I gathered the sleeve too high - if I did, it will pinch in the armpit, and I'll know to let it out a little next time. I believe I gathered almost all the fullness into the yoke part, which may have been excessive.
Things to change: The slope of the front (to accomodate the yoke point), and the width of the front and back - they don't gather enough. Also, importantly, I am really not pleased with the curve of the bottom of the front yoke. I really like the picture - it has the narrow point and then a leveling off so that by the shoulders it's almost level. Mine, as you can see, ended up much more V-shaped. I'm going to make that curve more extreme, so that it comes out of the shoulder almost level, and veers in further towards the center line before dropping down into the point. Then I'll use the modified pattern to get the right shape for the front. I'll lay that over another piece of canary paper, and trace the new curve. Then I'll continue the CF fold line straight and the armscye line straight. These will be almost but not quite parallel. This I will then cut into several even strips, and spread them evenly out. Then I'll trace the new, spread curve and sides, and voila! New pattern piece, which perfectly matches the curved shape of the yoke when gathered up. I'll probably use that to make a back pattern piece that's the same width and angle at the sides.
Other than that... moving house soon. I'll have a bedroom larger than a postage stamp, and I'm hoping that after the initial fuss of moving in has settled I can make things. Sadly, it doesn't have hardwood floors either, but I'm thinking either a very large piece of masonite or a roll of linoleum for the floor will take care of some of the problems. And at least I'll have space for hoops. Then maybe I can really get rolling on the blue and cream check day dress. That would be fantastic.
July 20th, 2007
|rabid_bookwyrm||06:27 am - Ok, here's the Germans I was going to do last night -|
( Lucas Cranach the Elder:Collapse )
Unrelatedly, Princess Maria Jacobaa, Hans Wertinger. It must have been painted within 30 years before or after the turn of the century (1470-1530) but beyond that the date is unknown. She has a much different style, and extremely different sleeves than the other German women.
July 19th, 2007
|rabid_bookwyrm||09:20 pm - Some research, some flights of fancy, some shameless drooling|
Ok, we'll start with the topic of the hour: The late 15th century Burgundy:
Unlike usual, these guys won't open in new windows. I'm lazy today, and I have boatloads of links.
Mary Magdalen and a Donor. (This sort of thing went on all the time back then - lots of portraits are of Saint and Donor or the like. I am particularly interested in the donor's collar, but Mary's costume is pretty spiffy too. I like how the piping is just occasionally snipped - it's usually more than one per inch, or not at all. Painted by the Master of Moulins, between 1498 and 1500.
Portrait of Margaret of Austria. Same artist. 1490-91. You can see how it's her kirtle (the layer under the red dress, but not the black neck cloth, which is completely invisible in this painting) which has the fur sleeves. The red layer's cuffs are just widely cut to accomodate. Same neat trim. At marquis.de this is attributed to the artist Hey, but I'm more inclined to trust WGA.
The birth of Mary by the Meister des Marienlebens, c.1460. I can't find any information on this artist (the "Master of X" or "Meister des X" designation is typically used when we don't know the name but do know the area he was from), but the hem of the lefthand lady and all three necklines are quite like the other dresses I'm interested in. The rightmost lady is particularly intriguing because she's clearly wearing a red kirtle under her red dress (that's the triangular bit you can see in the neckline), but the kirtle showing at the skirt is green. Either her red overdress is actually an underdress (not unknown, if you stroll around the link I posted last night for a while, you'll discover a very good theory relating to the layering of kirtles and the like) over *two* kirtles - the probably short-sleeved or sleeveless red one, the long-sleeved wide-necked green one over, and the red short-sleeved dress over top of that, or the theory is wrong and there's just a bit of cloth pinned to the neck of the green one. It's impossible to say. Also interesting to note that the middle lady doesn't have anything except her shift under her dress. The dress itself is short-sleeved and has one grey sleeve pinned on and one arm 'bare'. This is extremely unusual. Lady Left Hand is relatively uneventful, other than being helpful for identifying the location of the costumes.
The Lute Player and the Harpist by Israhel van Meckenem the Younger. Pinned up lappets on her cap (did they call them lappets back then?). I also like her split, turned-back cuffs.
( On to other subjects:Collapse )
Great boots, dude. They look totally comfortable, with that fur lining.
I was going to put up some Germans, too, but it's really late and I need to go to bed.
July 18th, 2007
I *heart* the 1400s high-waisted Burgundian gowns. So pretty. Here's a page of research on the subject. Clicky.
I wants it so...
July 7th, 2007
Holy crap awesome "lattice" smocking! Instructions here, though they're not very clear. I read through about three times and got it by the end, though.
July 6th, 2007
|rabid_bookwyrm||04:34 pm - New project|
I've been meaning to do this for a while, and I finally decided to. Because. Just because. So I'm going to use the body of the Folkwear pattern Bolivian Milkmaid's Jacket with some modifications and make the sleeves out of ribbon. It will be fantastic.
The changes will basically involve making it fit me better. I'll leave the darts in but I'll make the waist nip in less and flare out less, so there will be no particular frill around the waist. The side seam preforms some acrobatics that it just doesn't need to. I've made this before, so I'm pretty clear on what to change this time. I'm not sure how I'll close it yet. Last time, I went with buttons and button loops, but maybe I'll just do hidden hooks and eyes?
Here's the fabric and some of the ribbon. It's a shot orange/bright pink silk, and the ribbons are bias-cut silk. There are seven different styles. The two that are out look very like each other, but aren't. ("Shot" means that the warp and weft are two different colors, so at different angles the fabric looks either orange or fuscia. It's orange more of the time than not, which is why I like it even so.)
I'll sketch it out later, I think. Right now, pancakes are more important.
July 5th, 2007
I love the little pleats, and the way they're staggered! Delightful!
I'm working (veeeery slowly, cursed small room and no hardwod floors) on my chemise mock.
Here's the link to the pattern and sketch. The sketch zooms if you click.
- The pattern really doesn't resemble the picture at all. I mean, it's got the same basic elements, but they don't sum to the sketch. For example:
. The sleeves? Nothing like. Way, way, way too narrow to possibly puff like that. And I think the cuff was broken in some way too.
. The point where the yoke comes down between the breasts dips too low for the slant the body is cut at, so there's this horrible little pouf there; a kind of triangular space that just thrusts out of nowhere.
. It's really just not that gathered.
However, the yoke fit me first-off, and the sleeves I changed before I even cut the fabric.
- Need some nice linen for this. Cotton isn't going to be as soft as I would like as opaque as I would like. Or some good cotton sateen.
There are some pictures, but I'll get to that later.
May 26th, 2007
Patterns again. But this time, patterns I actually own. I bought this Simplicity knit shirt (for the one modelled, not the vile pair on top) and the McCall's duro style for Jess. And Kris bought this totally cute princess seamed dress for her cousin's wedding.
I'm about to start working for the nice lady who emailed me about sewing. It's a neat project - her senior design collection, which will be in the show in June. Looks like it'll be relatively tricky sewing, which should be neat.
I'm also going to make Jess curtains, because curtains are a good thing. The fabrics are astounding. Very astounding. More later. I hope I got enough fabric for that.
May 17th, 2007
|rabid_bookwyrm||02:37 am - Things I want to Make Things Out Of.|
Bajillion patterns behind cut. More for myself than you. I keep closing a window with apple W, and then realizing that I just actually quit and all of my tabs are gone, since apple Q is right there. And there's no way to change it. Apple tab is next over. I love how quit is right in the middle. Fuckers.
( Hokay, so - Collapse )
May 5th, 2007
|rabid_bookwyrm||02:48 am - Purdy boots|
I dunno, though. This pair, "Veil," are cut wide, which is fantastic. Really fantastic. Because I have very wide feet and ever since my boots went to get repaired at the beginning of this school year and I didn't have them for two months and wore ill-fitting shoes, my right big toe has been extremely finnicky about any kind of pinching. BUT the heels look at least two inches, and that's a major problem for me. I can't wear heels. It will utterly destroy my feet.
On the other hand, the "Steeple" style isn't wide (that I can see), *and* the heels are about half an inch too high. It's about enough to make me cry. I've emailed them to see if the "Veil" style is shorter than it looks.
I wonder if it would be even slightly feasable to get a, say, two inch heel replaced at a shoestore with a one inch heel, or cut down, or something. It's a really big drop, though. I'd have to ask.
May 3rd, 2007
Hot damn! Finally, after years of searching (not kidding), I have found 100% silk velvet. Sold by a company called Silk Baron, but it's cheeper through their E-bay store. However, they don't have all the colors there. I'm hoping hoping hoping that that color brown is right for my red silk natural form dress. That would be fantastic.
In other news... bought a pretty yellow linen-ish table cloth from the thrift store for $5. I think I'm going to make a summer dress out of it. I dunno what I'll do then, since I never wear summer dresses and no one else can wear yellow... I'll figure it out.
Haven't worked on the pants for ages. Sigh. I'm hoping this summer I can get some sewing done. Maybe one of the days I don't have lab I'll declare Sewing Day. That would be a good thing to do.